Rc transmitter and rc receiver

An rc transmitter is an electronic device that allows us to control any remote control vehicle by means of signals that it sends to it. In the case of frsky we find 2 protocols, acst in the oldest stations, that this has d8 mode that is usually used for small drones with 8-channel receivers and there is d16 mode. d16 mode is usually used for the vast majority of brand receivers such as rxsr, xm +, xsr ...

Access protocol is a system used by the most modern stations such as the taranis xlite or the taranis x9d plus 2019; that these are compatible with receivers in d16 mode and receivers in acces mode.

A receiver is a small device used in vehicles or aircraft that are remotely controlled to guide you through the orders you receive from the station that you have previously linked to. Frsky has a wide variety of receivers with various functions, various sizes and various prices.

For example, the rxsr receiver that I use in many of my drones is a small receiver but it has very good performance, it is installed in a very simple and comfortable way and it fits easily anywhere and then there are larger receivers that they usually use the pwm system. that is to say that for example the servos or the drives are connected to the receiver by a 3-wire connector red positive (+) black negative (-) and signal white or yellow or orange. Each servo or each esc on a different channel of the receiver.

To link the receiver to the station, the first thing to do is solder the positive (+) (red wire) negative (-) (black wire) and signal (white wire) wires on the corresponding pad depending on the receiver we have and connect it to an esc (variator) or to a (fc) controller board and supply it with 5 volts. this is for receivers with sbus or ppm signal that carry the signal over a single cable

Once soldered on our controller board or the bec of our drive, we will first press the button on the receiver and then we will connect the battery to power the board and that it will power our receiver. If we press the button and plug in the battery we will see that the receiver enters bind mode, that is, it is waiting for us to go to our station and in the menu we look for the option of bind or link. We must place the correct type of correct receiver, that is, if for example it is an XM + or an rxsr or an xsr will be in d16 mode. if it is a small drone that usually comes mounted type emax tinyhawk or eachine 65 we will use the d8 mode.

Once we have them fed and in bind mode we go to the station we look for the link option in the menu. We select if the receiver has the option of telemetry or not and the number of channels it has and the station will start beeping, which means that it is searching for the receiver. After about 10 seconds we press the exit button until we return to the initial screen and we will see that the receiver has a solid green led, this means that the receiver has been successfully banded. On the contrary, if our receiver does not link, it may be due to a problem. of its firmware, that we have the station with the European firmware (LBT) and the receiver in international mode (FCC) or vice versa. You must have both in fcc or lbt so they can be linked.

The correct answer is no, that is, depending on the station model we have, we can use one or the other. For example, with the taranis x9d plus se or the taranis qx7 we can link all the receivers that are compatible with the d8 and d16 protocol in the accst version (xm, xm +, xsr, rxsr, x8r, s6r) it is also compatible with protocol receivers lr like l9r. but acess receivers are not compatible with these stations.

With the most modern stations such as the x9lite, x9lites xlite, xlite s these transmitters are compatible like the previous models with the receivers of the d16 series but these newer ones do not incorporate the d8 system. they have replaced it with the acess system. There is an option with the drones that the d8 receivers are compatible through an adjustment in betaflight if we put frsky x in the receiver section instead of frsky d those receivers become compatible with d16.

The first thing as soon as you buy a transmitter and reiver and take it out of the case, is to connect the battery in the rear rear and see if the station has the updated firmware and is in our language so that we can understand what the menus and possible alerts mean to us. you can indicate us from our transmitter.

We will not also set that our remote control station has the sd card in which we will place the different firmwares of the different receivers, we can also place the voices and sounds that we want to hear when we operate a switch on the top or when we have little signal radio or we have low battery in the drone or low battery in the remote. in the sd we can also upload some images or logos, for example in the drone profile I have a photo of a racing drone. It is advisable to always fly with the transmitter battery fully charged and check that all the levers, sticks and buttons in the screen area are in perfect working order.

The receivers as soon as they are removed from the bag in which they arrive from the factory, the first thing we will do is solder the 3 cables in case it is a small sbus protocol receiver such as the xm + or the rxsr the black cable to the negative, red to positive and white to signal pad. and we will feed it to 5v and we will do the linking process as indicated in the paragraph above.

Press the button on the receiver and connect the batteries and the receiver goes into link mode by simultaneously lighting the two led indicators, one red and one green, then we take the station and go to the menu and look for the option where it says bind. Press the button and a drop-down will appear with 4 options, which are; 8 channels with and without telemetry and 2 options of 16 channels with and without telemetry. We select the correct option according to the receiver we are using and press enter to enter that option, then the station will begin to produce a few beeps with 10 seconds of beeps is more than enough for our receiver to link to our station. If we have done everything right, the receiver will stay with a single green led solidly.

Before starting to fly the first day, it's better to test the RC transmitter and receiver . First we turn on the transmitter and leave it to a companion and we take the drone with my hand (without propellers) and start it. Once started we start walking down a path until my drone stops. once the drone stops we look at the google maps the distance that we have traveled and thus we know the distance that we can move away from our station without failsafe problems. or that our aircraft falls.

The position of the antennas in the aircraft also depends a lot. For example, in racing drones, before we placed it on the drone arm and covered them with electrical tape, but a few months later we discovered that if you put the tip of the antenna away from the chassis carbon fiber, the signal from the receiver came with more force in the same way also depends on what position we have placed the antenna of the station. we recommend straight pointing a little upwards.

Today I am going to show you how to build a 2.4 GHz transmitter and receiver with an Arduino based system. By following the instructions below, you’ll be able to make and test your own controller without any radio-controlled gear at all. So, if you’ve had some experience with Arduino before, this is the perfect DIY project for you!

Everyone knows the traditional and easier way of getting an RC system: simply buy an already existing transmitter and - again - an already existing receiver that is compatible with the transmitter. This might cost you more than you are willing to invest but I’m glad to tell you that there is a cheaper option!

In a few words, you will be assembling two sets of systems that have some similarities but are distinguished by the components that will essentially attribute their specific functions.

One of the sets is the controller. This is the one that will have the Arduino Joystick and will work as a transmitter, meaning that you will use it in your hands to input the desired controls.

The other set is the control system. It will work as a receiver and is the one that goes inside your plane/drone/robot and actually runs the motors and everything else you might want your controller to command.

Materials

First things first, to make a 2.4 GHz transmitter and receiver, you will need:

* The Arduino Pro Mini is a microcontroller board that comes in two flavors: the 328 and 162. These are just the model numbers of the two types of chips that an Arduino Pro Mini board can have, each with a distinct memory size. For this project, either one of these options will work perfectly fine but you have to pay attention to which one you have in hands when we get to the coding step since different models will require different programming settings.

** This chip will be the communication center for the two sets (both the control system and the controller will have an Arduino, an nRF chip, and a 3.3V Regulator Module). No matter what model, every nRF module contains a cristal that is quite exposed and, if broken, will stop the whole thing from working. So, I strongly recommend choosing the chip according to what kind of environment you will be submitting your plane/drone/robot model.

*** The H-bridges are what output the power to your motors or servos and these modules are the first to die if the motors/servos get overly stressed. To properly choose one for your model, you need to know beforehand what you are putting into your plane/drone/robot model - what actually works in it.

**** The 2S Lithium Polymer Battery and the Micro Gear Motors are required only for powering and testing this whole project, respectively. They are not part of the two systems we will build.

Wiring

To make a 2.4 GHz transmitter and receiver Do the following connections twice: once for the Controller and once for the Control System

* It’s recommended that an isolation point (switch or removable link) be added between the battery and the circuit. The positive of the battery must be connected to a switch, then the switch to Vcc.

Now, do the following connections to differentiate between the Controller and the Control System.

All the wiring can be done in 3 different ways, which is why the design step is so critical. It’s important to note that, regardless of your choice of wiring, the actual connections are the same.

Your 3 choices of wiring are:

1. Loose wires (lightweight but more fragile)
2. Perfboard (heavier than the 1st option, more robust but with a larger footprint)
3. Custom circuit board (which is also heavier than the first but more robust and still leaves a smaller footprint than the 2nd option). This one is the ideal choice if you’ve already got both your plane/drone/robot model and wiring designs figured out.